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Gear

Glass Blowing Tools and Lampworking Gear for the Torch Bench

A torch is only part of a working setup. These are the supporting pieces: gas and oxygen plumbing, safety gear, ventilation, the bench itself, shaping and bead tools, glass, and annealing. Treat this as a checklist of categories to research, not a shopping list. We deliberately do not point you at a generic marketplace search for parts like regulators and flashback devices, where the wrong item is a safety problem rather than an inconvenience. Buy those to your torch maker's stated specification.

Each item opens a short note and the guide that covers it. Setting up a bench from scratch? The setup planning checklist settles the torch, oxygen, fuel, ventilation and eyewear decisions in order, and the beginner setup cost guide prices the whole bench.

Disclosure: We are not currently part of any affiliate program and earn nothing from this page. The list below is an unpaid editorial checklist of what a station needs. If that changes, this notice changes with it.

Gear groups

Gas & connections

The plumbing between your fuel, oxygen, and torch. Match thread sizes (most lampworking torches use B fittings) and use grade T hose for propane or natural gas. Flashback protection is the one item here that is not a default purchase: premix torches need an arrestor, surface-mix makers may not require one, and a conventional arrestor must never go on an oxygen concentrator output. Check your torch maker first.

  • Oxygen regulator (CGA-540)

    Each gas gets its own dedicated regulator; creep, outlet pressure rising with the torch valves closed, means service or replacement before the next session.

    Buy this to your torch maker's stated specification; we do not link a marketplace search for it.

    Guide: Regulator Troubleshooting: Creep, Freezing, Leaks, and Flutter

  • Fuel regulator (propane, or house gas where your torch needs one)

    Household natural gas arrives at roughly 7 inches of water column, so whether you need a regulator or a booster is set by your torch's required fuel pressure and your local code.

    Buy this to your torch maker's stated specification; we do not link a marketplace search for it.

    Guide: Do I Need a Regulator for a Natural Gas Torch?

  • Grade T twin welding hose

    Grade T is rated for all fuel gases, which is why propane and natural gas setups use it rather than Grade R; the fuel side carries a left-hand thread so the two lines cannot be swapped.

    Guide: Lampworking Torch Fittings, Hoses, and Connectors

  • Flashback protection (only what your torch maker specifies)

    Premix torches need an arrestor, surface-mix makers may not require one, and GTT says a conventional arrestor must not go on an oxygen concentrator output, where it severely restricts flow.

    Buy this to your torch maker's stated specification; we do not link a marketplace search for it.

    Guide: Flashback Arrestors: Does Your Glass Torch Need Them?

  • Oxygen hose Y-connector / splitter

    Joins two concentrators into one supply or feeds a multi-port torch; the fittings guide covers the build and its cautions.

    Guide: Lampworking Torch Fittings, Hoses, and Connectors

  • Hose clamps

    GTT's instructions secure each hose to its stud with a clamp, fuel on the red-valve stud and oxygen on the green.

    Guide: Torch Mounting and Bench Angle: Fixing Your Torch Properly

  • Leak-test solution (oil-free soapy water)

    Check every connection with an oil-free soap solution before you light, and never hunt for a leak with a flame.

    Guide: Glass Torch Safety Setup: How to Build a Safe Lampworking Station

Diagram of the order of parts on each gas line, from supply to torch: fuel from a propane cylinder or house gas through a regulator and hose to the torch; oxygen from a cylinder through its regulator and hose; oxygen from a concentrator through tubing and a barb adapter with no conventional arrestor. Dashed slots mark the regulator side and torch side positions for flashback protection, used only where the torch maker and gas supply call for it.
The order of parts on each line, supply to torch. Dashed slots are flashback protection, fitted only where your torch maker and gas supply call for it. More in Lampworking Torch Fittings, Hoses, and Connectors

Oxygen supply

Most home lampworkers start with an oxygen concentrator rather than refilling tanks, but buy the concentrator itself from a specialist or refurbished-medical-equipment supplier, not a general marketplace. Below is the plumbing that connects it to your torch.

  • Oxygen concentrator (continuous flow)

    Buy a continuous-flow unit, never a pulse-dose portable, and size its LPM to the torch you actually run rather than to a rule of thumb.

    Buy this to your torch maker's stated specification; we do not link a marketplace search for it.

    Guide: Oxygen Concentrator LPM for Lampworking: How Many You Need

  • Oxygen cylinder (leased, owned or exchanged)

    Cylinders give high flow on demand at the cost of refills; store and use every one secured upright and chained.

    Buy this to your torch maker's stated specification; we do not link a marketplace search for it.

    Guide: Oxygen for Lampworking: Tanks, Suppliers, and Real Costs

  • Oxygen tubing & barb fittings

    A concentrator usually outputs through a small hose barb, so setups often bridge it to B-fitting hardware with an adapter; confirm the exact adapter with your maker.

    Guide: Lampworking Torch Fittings, Hoses, and Connectors

Illustrative chart of total oxygen spending over months of regular torching: the tank line climbs a step with every refill, the concentrator line starts higher and then rises only slowly, and the two cross where the concentrator has paid for itself.
How the two supplies spend money over time. Illustrative shape only: refill prices and how much you torch move the crossover. More in Oxygen Concentrator vs Tanks for Lampworking: Which to Run

Safety & eyewear

Non-negotiable. Didymium filters the sodium flare for soft glass; boro work calls for boro-rated lenses. A CO detector and an extinguisher belong in every torch room.

Floor plan of a torch studio and the hall beside it: a CO detector right over the flame or beside the make-up air window is marked no; one across the room from the torch near seated breathing height is marked yes, as is the code-minimum alarm outside each sleeping area.
Where a CO detector reads true: across the room from the torch near seated breathing height, plus the code-minimum alarms outside sleeping areas. More in CO Detectors and Air Monitoring for a Torch Studio
Four ways to wear torch eyewear over prescription glasses: fit-over didymium frames, clip-on flip-up filters, prescription didymium lenses, and contacts with standard torch eyewear, each with its trade-off. A footer notes that didymium filters sodium flare and UV, not infrared.
Four ways to wear a sodium-flare filter if you need a prescription. Didymium filters sodium flare and UV, not infrared. More in Didymium Over Prescription Glasses: Fit-Overs and Clip-Ons

Ventilation

Active exhaust pulls combustion byproducts and metal-oxide fume away from your face; remember make-up air to replace what you push out. Duct size alone does not size a system: match the fan to your hood, duct run, and static pressure, then measure the installed airflow.

Side view of a torch studio's airflow path in four parts: make-up air entering through a cracked window or door behind the worker, a capture hood low and close above and behind the flame, a fan mounted in the duct, and a short straight duct out, so fresh air crosses the worker first and fumes are pulled away in front.
One airflow path in four parts: make-up air in, capture hood, fan, duct out. Fresh air reaches you first; fumes leave in front of you. More in Studio Ventilation Design for Lampworking: Hood, Fan, and Duct

Bench, mounting & ergonomics

How the torch meets the table: fastened so a yanked hose cannot move it, on a surface that cannot burn, with hoses routed out of the way and a chair set to your elbows rather than to whatever table you own.

Side view of a torch mounted on a bench: steel or cement board under the torch, the flame angled slightly up and away, the base set back from the front edge outside the reach path, a marver beside the flame, and hoses dropping in a relaxed clamped loop.
Mounting basics: a non-combustible surface, the flame slightly up and away, the base set back, and hoses clamped in a relaxed loop. More in Torch Mounting and Bench Angle: Fixing Your Torch Properly
Side view of a seated lampworker at the bench: elbows near 90 degrees with forearms level with the bench, eyes looking through the flame, feet flat with hips slightly above the knees.
The bench, chair and torch triangle: seated elbow height first, then the chair and torch follow. More in Ergonomics at the Torch: Bench Height, Posture, and Pacing

Shaping tools

Graphite first, metal next. A starter set of marver, paddle, reamer, rod rest and pick covers most beginner shaping; each metal tool after it adds a new technique rather than making an old one easier.

Bead making

The mandrel, its coating and the tools that clean up after it. Hole size is decided here, before you light the torch.

Cross-sections of the three standard mandrel sizes at relative scale: 1/16 inch for small-hole beads, 3/32 inch as the beadmaking standard, and 1/8 inch for big-hole beads, each shown inside the bead it produces.
Mandrel diameter sets the bead hole: 1/16, 3/32 and 1/8 inch at relative scale. More in Mandrel Sizes and Types for Beadmaking: Diameters and Care

Glass & color

The material itself. Pick a glass family first, then buy rod, tubing and frit inside it, because a matching COE number on two brands is not a compatibility guarantee.

Annealing

Glass that isn't annealed carries residual stress and can crack, sometimes days later. A small kiln with a digital controller lets you batch-anneal beads and small boro.

Chart of a typical boro (COE 33) annealing cycle over time: a garage hold while pieces wait at temperature, a soak in the annealing range of about 950 to 1050 degrees F, a slow cool through the range, then a faster cool to room temperature.
A typical boro cycle: garage, soak, slow cool through the range, then cool to room. Schedules vary by glass; confirm yours with its maker. More in Glass Annealing Schedules: Anneal Points and Soak Times

Specs and ratings vary by brand; always confirm thread sizes, hose grade, and oxygen output against your own torch before buying. Safety information on this site is general and not a substitute for the manufacturer's instructions or a qualified professional's advice.