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How to Choose a Glass Torch: The Complete Buyer's Guide

Confused about which glass torch to buy? This buyer's guide walks soft-glass and boro artists through mix type, oxygen, fuel, and budget to the right torch.

In-depth guide

By Joe Blanchard, sixteen years on the distribution side of the glass industry · Updated

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The right glass torch depends on four things: what glass you work, what you make, how you’ll supply oxygen, and your budget for the whole setup, not just the torch. Get those four right and the specific model almost picks itself. It is worth the care: most people buy one torch and work it for years, usually without having worked on one first, so the fit has to be right before the money changes hands. This guide walks you through each decision the way someone who’s spent years on the supply side of this industry would talk you through it at the counter.

Why trust this guide? It’s written from sixteen years (2007 to 2023) on the distribution side of the glass industry, and the comparisons here are editorial: we’ll happily tell you when the cheaper torch is the smarter buy. Every spec we cite, we cite a source for, and we flag anything you should confirm with the manufacturer, because this is a hobby involving oxygen, propane, and a lot of heat.

Start here: the four questions that decide everything

  1. What glass will you work? Soft glass (soda-lime, ~104 COE) or borosilicate (“boro”/hard glass), or both?
  2. What will you make? Small beads and detail, or pipes, sculpture, and bigger solid/tubing work?
  3. How will you supply oxygen? An oxygen concentrator, compressed tanks, or bulk, and how much can it deliver?
  4. What’s your real budget? For the system: torch + oxygen + fuel + regulators, hoses, flashback protection, eyewear, and ventilation.

Everything below expands on these.

Surface mix vs premix: the first fork in the road

Cross-section diagram of surface-mix and premix torches: in a surface-mix torch, separate oxygen and fuel channels meet at the torch face in open air; in a premix torch the gases combine in a mixing chamber inside the torch before the face, producing a tighter, more focused flame, with a note naming the hybrids of both: the Carlisle CC family and GR and the Nortel Arrow and Hydra

Torches come in two flavors based on where the fuel and oxygen combine:

  • Surface mix keeps oxygen and fuel separate until they leave the torch face, mixing and burning at the surface. The result is a quieter, gentler, highly adjustable flame that works beautifully across soft glass and boro, and is friendly to colors. GTT’s entire line is surface mix.
  • Premix combines the gases inside the torch. The flame is tighter and faster (higher velocity), often cheaper, and noisier, historically the go-to for hard glass.

You’ll hear “premix for boro, surface mix for soft.” That’s outdated: the most sought-after boro and pipe-production torches today are surface mix (think GTT). The honest rule is: surface mix is the more versatile, more forgiving choice for most people, while premix can save money and suits some hard-glass workflows. See surface mix vs premix torches. Sources: Lampwork Etc., The Crucible.

Match the torch to the glass and the work

You mostly make…In…A good fit is…
Beads, small detailsoft glassA gentle surface-mix torch (e.g., Carlisle Mini CC) or an affordable starter (Nortel Minor)
Mixed soft + small borobothA versatile starter (e.g., GTT Bobcat)
Pipes, functional, sculptureboroA larger multi-stage surface mix (e.g., GTT Phantom / Mirage)
Large solids, tubing, productionboroHigh-output multi-stage (e.g., GTT Kobuki); match the burner and oxygen supply to the size of the work

Specs above are starting points, confirm current models and numbers with the maker before buying. Sources: GTT Bobcat, GTT Phantom, GTT Mirage, GTT Kobuki.

Don’t skip this: your oxygen supply often decides the torch

This is where beginners overspend or get stuck. A torch is only as good as the oxygen feeding it. Bigger torches demand more oxygen (measured in liters per minute, LPM). If your supply can’t keep up, a powerful torch will run poorly.

Chart of relative oxygen demand by torch class: small bead and Minor-class bench torches are low and run on one concentrator; mid-size bench surface-mix torches are moderate, one capable concentrator and sometimes two; larger multi-stage surface-mix torches are high, several concentrators in parallel or tanks; large, production and scientific burners are very high, tanks, cylinder banks or bulk oxygen

  • Oxygen concentrator(s), pull oxygen from the air; no refills. Convenient and popular for home studios. You must match the concentrator’s LPM output to the torch’s appetite: GTT says the GTT Bobcat runs well on a single 5 LPM concentrator and is at its best on 8 LPM. Bigger torches may need two concentrators or tanks.
  • Compressed oxygen tanks, high output, but you’ll handle refills, storage, and safety.
  • Bulk / liquid oxygen, for serious production.

Rule of thumb: pick your oxygen reality first, then choose a torch that thrives on it. A modest torch that runs perfectly beats a monster that starves. See oxygen concentrator vs tanks for lampworking.

Fuel: propane or natural gas

Most setups run propane (portable, widely available). If you have natural gas plumbed to your space, some torches/regulators are configured for it, convenient, but confirm the torch supports it and get the correct regulator. Don’t mix up fittings or regulators between fuels.

Bench torch or hand torch?

Most lampworking happens on a bench torch mounted in front of you, and most torchworkers never use anything else. Hand torches are a specialist setup used mainly for lathe work (spot-heating glass that’s turning on a glass lathe; see the best lathe torch guide), scientific work, assembly and offhand moves. Several GTT models, the Lynx, Phantom, Mirage, Sidewinder and Delta Elite among them, are sold in GTT hand torch versions as well as bench versions, but nearly everyone, and every beginner, wants a bench torch.

Budget the whole system, not just the torch

A common mistake is blowing the budget on the torch and under-funding everything else. Plan for:

  • The torch
  • The oxygen system (often the biggest line item, concentrator(s) or tanks)
  • Propane tank + regulator
  • Flashback protection matched to your torch and gas supply, plus check valves
  • Eyewear specified for your glass and work; boro requires sodium-flare, UV and IR protection together, not merely a didymium name or a dark tint
  • Ventilation suited to your glass and colorants
  • Hoses, clamps, a stable bench

A capable starter setup is as much about the supporting gear as the torch itself. When the total is capped rather than open-ended, the value picks under $500 guide shows which torches leave enough of the budget for that supporting gear, and our lampworking torch picks by budget cover the entry, mid and production bands.

Safety essentials (non-negotiable)

You’re combining pure oxygen, propane, and intense heat. Before your first flame:

  • Fit the flashback protection your torch maker and gas supply call for, which is not the same on every setup: premix needs an arrestor, surface-mix makers may not require one, and a device can restrict a low-pressure concentrator. GTT specifically warns against its conventional arrestors on that output. Resolve protection and supply compatibility before lighting. See flashback arrestors explained.
  • Wear eyewear specified for the glass and work. Check the exact lens’s sodium-flare, UV and IR protection separately; do not infer protective performance from flare visibility alone.
  • Set up proper ventilation.
  • Use the correct regulators, leak-check every connection, and keep oil/grease away from oxygen fittings.
  • Secure your tanks.

This guide informs your decision; it does not replace the manufacturer’s instructions or advice from a qualified professional for your specific setup.

Quick recommendations by buyer

Key takeaways

  • Decide glass type → what you make → oxygen supply → budget, in that order.
  • Surface mix is the versatile, forgiving default; premix can be cheaper and suits some hard-glass work.
  • Your oxygen supply often dictates the torch, choose a torch that thrives on the oxygen you’ll actually have.
  • Budget the whole system, and never cut corners on safety gear.

Sources

Editor’s note: specs come from the makers’ own pages where we have them; flame-behavior notes are community knowledge. Verify current lineups, specs, and prices with the maker before purchase.

About the author

Written and edited by Joe Blanchard, who spent 2007 to 2023 on the distribution side of the glass industry in Asheville, North Carolina. GlassTorches.com is his independent, manufacturer-first buyer's guide. More about the editor.

How this guide was sourced: figures come from the manufacturer's own pages and manuals where we have them and are labelled as estimates where they are ours; the catalog on this site is the source of truth, and where sources disagree the guide says so. Confirm the current spec with the maker before you buy. How we work.